“Architecture should speak of its time and place, but yearn for timelessness.” Frank Ghehry
When I took the trip with Overseas Adventure Travel, Balkan Discovery: Bulgaria and Romania, one of the most interesting cities we encountered was Sibiu, Romania. This was one of the best stops on the tour, and architect Frnk Gehry pretty much described Sibiu in the quote above. I loved the charm of the old town we walked through and enjoyed the best cup of Viennese coffee I’ve had not only on this trip, but in years. The architecture of the Transylvanian Saxon housing is magnificent in the old town, unique in style, descriptive of time and place, yet timeless in terms of the admiration it evokes from any traveler who is graced by its presence. We even entered a church of similar architectural style to see the inside and listen to the music while the service was in session. The interior was typical Lutheran simplicity, but the sermon was going to be in German, so we left. And what did we hear along the way? We walked straight from one century into another as we heard the booming sound check for the unmistakable drum introduction to Queens “We Will Rock You”! There was a cycling race and associated event going on in the main square of the old town that day. That was fun too when we recognized the song because it was almost completely out of sync with the architecture and tradition that surrounded us. Maybe they were also going to play the Queen song, “Bicycle Race”?
There are many cultural and sports events that take place in this German heritage town. It appeared to be filled with fun, lively, and charming vibes everywhere, and a town welcoming to people of all ages.
The architecture is a unique standout in that the ” eyes” of each house were really added for ventilation, so no glass was ever placed over the ventilated parts of the house. The roofs have a downward slope in front to catch water for drainage. The eyes originate from as early as the 15th century, with many structures being built in the 19th and even the 20th centuries. They are an element of baroque architecture, and may have in fact been designed by locals. I love looking at architecture in European cities, but I have never seen anything like it before this trip. Sibiu has been nicknamed “The town with the eyes” or “The town where houses don’t sleep” because of this unusual architecture.
There is an art museum in the old town, but I went with the group to an outdoor folk museum of preserved houses from years past.. it was a lovely walk after we took a local bus ride there. During our short two days there, we had a wonderful dose of the culture of the Transylvanian Saxon people, how they lived, what they wore, and how they ate in Sibiu. This is a unique and traditional part of the world that may ring home to many as it did with me.
Sibiu has also been known by several names down through the years, starting with Hermannstadt because of the city’s Germanic origins. There is also a Yiddish equivalent which is very similar. Both the Ottoman Empire and the Austria- Hungary Empire had to withdraw over the years in order for Sibiu to join the Transylvanian part of Central Romania.
Winston Churchill once said, “We shape our buildings; thereafter, they shape us.” Isn’t that the essence of travel? To visit a new city or country, learn about its history and cultural influences, and be forever changed? In the case of Sibiu, the “eyes” have it in terms of being a town that has touched me with its architecture and red sloping tile roofs in ways I’ll honestly never forget.
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